We will be adding to this board as new tips/suggestions arise
Melt & Pour Soap Making
- Use liquid glycerin to make melt & pour soap clearer. Be sure not to use to much for it will make the soap sticky.
- Embedded soap that bleeds. Unfortunately, most water-based dyes will migrate into each other when embedded. To avoid this use cosmetic grade
pigments which are non-bleeding. These are also not transparent.
- Melt and Pour soap has the sweats! If this is happening, its because your soap is drawing the moisture from the air. Glycerin soap attracts moisture. Try re-melting the bar and wrap immediately after the soap is removed from the mold.
- Soap doesn’t have a nice smell. If your scent is not lingering in your new bar of soap and all you can smell is glycerin, there might be two problems. First, try changing your brand of melt and pour soap. Many have an overpowering glycerin smell. Second, be sure to add your fragrance (only use quality fragrance or essential oils) when the soap has cooled a bit. Also, try not to boil your soap (just liquefy it) when melting it. Add at least 1 oz of scent per pound of soap base.
- Using 3-D molds. There are two ways in which to use a 3-D mold. First, pour one of the half of the mold, let dry, remove. Pour the other half, and just
as it is starting to set up, spray lightly with alcohol and gently place the first half on top. Let dry completely and remove for a 3-D effect. Another way is
to cut the 3-D mold into two separate molds, line up the two halves and clip them together with heavy clips. A pouring hole must be made in either the top or bottom of the mold. Be sure to choose the highest point on the mold for the hole. This will help the air to escape so no air bubbles will remain in the finished bar. Slowly pour the melted soap through the hole to fill the entire mold. This usually works with most 3-D molds and makes a solid soap. A pouring hole can be made with a small drill.
Cold Process Soap Making
- When the insulation period of 18-24 hrs. is over and the lid is removed from the mold, many times the block of soap looks transparent and soft or spongy. This is part of the gel stage, but the soap is still OK. Remove the lid and let the soap sit in the mold for another day and it will harden and become more opaque.
- Eliminate soda ash (white residue on the top of the soap), by making sure that there is no air space between the soap and the lid of the mold. Use plastic wrap on top of the fresh soap and then put on the lid, or if you are using a plastic mold, be sure to fill it as close to the top as possible. Use a mold that fits the size of your recipe and then you can kiss your ash good-bye.
Mineral Makeup & Bath Bombs
Use a Magic Bullet™ to blend mineral makeup dry ingredients. The bullet blends the colors with ease. It also makes the dry ingredients of the bath bombs much smoother, creating a finer finished look to your bath bombs. The Magic Bullet can be purchased at most Walgreen’s or discount stores.
- Waterproof your product labels made on an inkjet printer by lightly spraying them with gloss spray lacquer. Let dry then cut them out and place on your container.
- Avoid grainy shea butter products by heating your shea butter for at least 25 minutes over low heat until it reaches 175°. This will assure that the finished product will not develop a grainy texture and that the butter has sufficiently melted.
- Blends are best tested using the Q-Tip method. Get a bunch of Q-Tips and a small zip lock bag. Dip any number of Q-Tips into your scented oil and put into your zip lock bag, continue this for each oil you wish to blend with. Keep track of how many Q-Tips you use for each scent because that will be your ratio. Zip the bag and let it set 24 hrs, next day open the bag to reveal your new blend.